AN AMERICAN DESIGNER IN LONDON: TIM HAMILTON
The Celebrated Designer Tells Us Why The Only Constant In His Signature Style Is A Passion For Change
By Bianca Brigitte-Bonomi
American menswear is branded, somewhat unfairly, as a global underdog. It is the lesser cousin of its European counterpart; the visiting relative that one indulges through necessity, rather than through genuine appreciation. Not so for Iowa-born Tim Hamilton – a designer capable of presenting quintessential American classics in a European context with some serious Midwestern flair.
Adventurous, fresh and experimental, Hamilton is passionate about reinventing wardrobe staples. He's a former recipient of the coveted CFDA / Swarovski Award for emerging menswear, and is also the first US-based designer to show during Paris Men's Fashion week.
Having left his hometown for the glamour of Miami, Hamilton then sought out the grit of New York, where a stint working in the Ralph Lauren store translated into an internship and then a job, because, as he states: "the designers "liked how I dressed." Placements at J.Crew and Parsons led to Hamilton starting his own line where detail, craft and comfort go hand-in-hand and tailoring is synonymous with being wearable.
Through his manipulation of fabric and fit, and his juxtaposition of styles, Hamilton makes the familiar seem new. From herringbone-tweed blazers made from cotton, to reversible bomber jackets and crumpled polo shirts, he takes traditional, iconic American garments and puts them in a new arena:"It starts with an American place, whether that be military or casual, and it ends with reinterpretation."
It's an aesthetic that has witnessed him garner recognition on the global stage. "There is such a crossover in styles between England and the US," he says. "At the end of the day, everyone does a version of the Trench Coat or the Pea Coat. From haberdashery to military, these styles developed in Europe. Americans took them and deconstructed them and did something a bit different. And I take them again and offer something new."
"What Topman does is really interesting to me and one of the reasons that I was keen to work with them," continues the designer. "They offer a space that feels exciting and multi-generational. By using emerging and established designers they can take iconic menswear pieces, from the white t-shirt to a pair of black trousers, and build them into a language that people can reinterpret and translate in their own way. I like modernising and capturing a younger guy by doing something different. It's also a great way of making my clothes, which can be quite expensive, available and accessible to that market."
Hamilton's clothes maintain the ability to draw in a younger audience. "I think it's down to the fact that they come across as being more progressive," he says. "I'm interested in art and artists and I try to put this inspiration directly into the clothes. They can feel rebellious." For Hamilton, fashion is about generating change. To keep his clothes fresh, he likes to visit new cities and take on board their particular energies. "I like the spirit of London and Paris. For me, as a designer, it's important to experience what is going on there. When you are stuck in an office looking at images, things can become stale. It's good to get a new perspective on things, to talk to people, and to really get out there."
Bianca Brigitte Bonomi is fashion correspondent for Topman GENERATION and contributing writer to The National, Spear's and The Huffington Post