MENSWEAR'S DREAMER: JAMES LONG

The Sartorial Style Savant Explains Why He Doesn't Aspire To Be The Male Patti Smith
By Bianca Brigitte-Bonomi
Photography: Damien Fry

It's been an exciting few years for Northampton-born designer James Long. Fashion magazine regular, Topman NEW GEN favourite, and purveyor of such delights as the pink tweed overcoat and tropical leaf print shirt, Long's brand of fashion forwardness has made him a constant and indefatigable presence on the London scene. With a bold and directional design aesthetic, that often incorporates knitwear and leather, Long's creations are striking without ever seeming costume. "I want my designs to feel new and different," he says with characteristic candour. "That means pushing the boundaries, but maintaining a commercial edge. The pieces I make are luxurious, with a grunge element. There is a balance between hard and soft." His signature look includes chunky knits, biker jackets and leather accessories, but unless you are revisiting David Bowie in Labyrinth, he suggests that you "don't team leather with leather, dress it down with a t-shirt".

Above all, a James Long collection feels edgy in that New York Lou Reed "Street Hassle" sense. It's no surprise then that Long takes inspiration from the New York scene that nurtured the likes of Patti Smith, Robert Mapplethorpe, Iggy Pop and Brian Eno. "My inspiration constantly evolves", he says. "But some things don't change. Patti Smith will always be someone I go back to." Does Long, then, secretly harbour aspirations of rock super-stardom, donning a heavily-zipped biker jacket and playing air guitar after hours in his London studio? "I'm not vying to be the male Patti Smith," he explains [somewhat unconvincingly]. "I love the music but the dream was always to be part of the New York scene that Patti lived in, rather than being a musician myself. It's about the 1970s arts movement, Studio 54 and a different way of being."

It was the potential of the artist that first paved Long's journey into the fashion firmament. "It sounds silly, but growing up, I wasn't aware that fashion was a job. I did an art foundation and was always interested in colour, print and form. My tutors guided me towards fashion. It wasn't like I knew from the age of six that I wanted to be a designer." His passion for art is still present in his work. "I'm interested in Ethan Cook, Cindy Sherman and Tracey Emin. I'd like to do more fashion/art collaborations, particularly focused on the New York arts scene. The London scene isn't yet focused enough on the new contemporaries."

Having graduated from the Royal College of Art with an MA in Menswear and Accessories, Long debuted at MAN, supported by Topman and Fashion East. "There were only three designers doing the MAN show when I started. It's completely different now. There is a much wider pool of menswear designers out there and the scene has really taken off. I love Lou Dalton's designs and am also a fan of Christopher Raeburn. I suppose I'd like my design legacy to focus on my part in this movement."

In an increasingly cluttered marketplace, how does Long consistently remain a favourite of fashion editors and consumers alike? "I wear my clothes so I know how they feel", he says. "If I want to wear them, I would hope other people would also want to wear them. I try and create clothes that aren't already there. I know who my client is. I'm not afraid to try something new. And I have a great team." In addition to further expansion plans in New York and throughout the UK – "because we currently only really have a London presence in this country" – Long's male clients can finally breathe a sigh of relief. The launch of his womenswear line at Fashion East, started because he "realised that there was a high demand for my menswear collection from female buyers", means that you can now defiantly tell your girlfriend to stop stealing your favourite James Long sweater and buy her own.

Bianca Brigitte Bonomi is fashion correspondent for Topman GENERATION and contributing writer to The National, Spear's and The Huffington Post